| Bodice, Doublet and Jerkin |
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Bodice
The Bodice, commonly call Bodies or Pair of Bodies in period, is the women’s close-fitted bodice, either with a straight, square neckline, or the rounded French version. |
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Doublet
The Doublet was a close-fitted jacket with a high collar, worn by either sex. An additional shaping seam down the front of the doublet can be added by request. |
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Jerkin
The Jerkin was nearly indistinguishable from the Doublet. This Jerkin has no collar or shaping seams. |
| A wide variety of treatments were applied the shoulders and waists of Bodices, Doublets, and Jerkins. We offer the most common ones here, but others are also available. Please contact us if you have a specific look in mind. |
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| Breeches |
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Venetians
Venetians were full breeches, ending just below the knee, either tapering in or gathered into a band. |
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Galley Hose
Galley Hose were wide, full pants, reaching just to the knee. Some sources claim they were not stuffed, others claim they were. For this pattern, this has been interpreted as full breeches, much like French Hose, but coming to just above the knee and optionally stuffed or unstuffed. This woodcut of a workman shows our interpretation of Gally Hose. |
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French Hose
Perhaps the most popular style of Breeches of the late sixteenth century, French Hose were full, stuffed breeches, ending anywhere from just above the knee to just below the crotch, and covered in panes. As the decades passed, French Hose developed from a round shape to a more pyramid shape and the width and density of the panes changing with it. In the 1580s, Men began wearing Canions with their French Hose |
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French Hose with Canions
Although the extreme brevity of some French Hose in the 1580s and 1590s would suggest the need for Canions to be full breeches beneath the French Hose, the only extant examples are mere conical shapes attached at the bottom of the French Hose. This pattern emulates the extant versions. Please contact us for more information about the full breeches style. |
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| Sleeves |
| Individual or Under-Sleeves |
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Straight Narrow
The Straight Narrow Sleeve is a simple, narrow sleeve with the seam in the modern position: under the arm. Such a seam placement is often chosen to hide the seam when the fabric has a prominent pattern, however, the nature of this seam placement causes the sleeve to be tighter around the elbow and looser around the wrist and upper arm. |
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Curved Narrow
The Curved Narrow Sleeve uses a period seam placement, down the front and back of the arm. This seam position allows the sleeve to be tighter throughout the sleeve without constricting the movement or the arm at the elbow, however, the seams of this sleeve are more noticeable. |
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Back-Curved Narrow
Also using a period seam placement, the Back-Curved Narrow Sleeve provides more room at the elbow for movement and a tighter sleeve at the wrist, yet moves the seam to the less-noticeable position at the back of the arm. |
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Full (Wide) Curved
Gaining popularity in the mid-1570s, the Full Curved Sleeve widens out at the elbow and tapers back in to the wrist, often over a layer of stuffing. |
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Paned
The Paned Sleeve provides a unique opportunity for a lining or the shirt beneath to be visible through openings in the sleeve. This sleeve can be made with as few as three or as many panes as the wearer desires. |
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Diagonally Paned
A popular alternative to straight Paned Sleeves, the Diagonally Paned provides a diagonal slash to the sleeves, similar to the sleeves in this portrait of Elizabeth of Austria, Queen of France. |
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Padded (Leg-O-Mutton)
Gaining popularity in the early 1570s England from France, the Padded Sleeve is full and stuffed at the shoulder, tapering into a narrow wrist. This design builds the sleeve over the base of a Sleeve Cap, the most successful design at achieving the shape of the sleeve seen in portraits. This drawing of a French Noblewoman strongly shows the shape of the Padded Sleeve. |
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| Hanging Sleeves |
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Straight Hanging
The Straight Hanging Sleeve has no internal seams and can be made to any length the wearer desires. |
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Back-Curved Narrow Hanging
Made much like the Back-Curved Narrow Sleeve, the Back-Curved Narrow Hanging Sleeve is elongated and slightly widened, with a curved seam in the back for shaping. This sleeve can also be made to any length the wearer desires. |
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Spanish Round
This sleeve gained popularity in 1560s Spain and was adopted in England in the 1570s. The sleeve is straight in the front, with a wide, half-circle shape, and can be open down the length of the front, as seen in both England and Spain, or slit horizontally across the elbow and vertically down the front from the elbow down, as it was also worn in Spain. This portrait of Anne of Austria, Queen of Spain, shows an example of this sleeve worn in the Spanish style. |
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Spanish Bell
Although never worn in England, the large Spanish Bell Sleeves continue to be popular for their dramatic flare. This hanging sleeve is a floor-length sleeve, with straight edges to the wrist and from the wrist to the floor, and a long curved back seam. This is one of the more well-known portraits of Anne of Austria, Queen of Spain, showing a Spanish Bell Sleeve. |
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Sleeve Cap Shoulder Rolls
Popular in Italy, France, and England in the 1560s and 1570s, the Sleeve Cap Shoulder Roll is a very short, padded sleeve, much like a shoulder roll, often with panes wrapped around it and small puffs of white fabric protruding from between the panes. |
$25.00
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| Outerwear |
| Coming Soon! |
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| Hats |
| Coming Soon! |
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